Costa Vicentina in Portugal and its wines
Cin Cin from Southern Portugal
Driving around Southern Portugal, I could not believe how diverse this region is.
To put things in a perspective: a 5-hour road trip from Toronto to Montreal yields no changes whatsoever - except the language on the road signs. If you drive for 1 hr in Portugal you end up in a different universe.
There was so much to see and so little damn time! We had to be brutally selective.
One of the places I regret not exploring properly is Portugal’s Costa Vicentina - the Atlantic coast of Southern Portugal.
Costa Vicentina in Portugal
It’s beautiful. It’s idyllic. Untainted by large-scale tourism.
Authentic fishing villages. Sprawling, mostly empty beaches framed by rugged cliffs.
Lots of big waves and - consequently - lots of hot surfers.
One of my favourite Portuguese wines is made on the Costa Vicentina.
I tried it at a stand-out restaurant called Casa do Gadanha, in Estremoz - a beautiful town in the heart of Alentejo.
Lago do Gadanha in Estremoz
Small streets of old EstremozCasa do Gadanha Restaurante in Estremoz
Casa do Gadanha is an establishment that merits a notice in the Michelin guide. And will probably get it.
This was one of the places recommended by a Portuguese food blogger Ines. We showed up for lunch on a hot sunny day - ready to be impressed.
The most discerning food critic - my dad - in front of Casa do Gadanha
Palácio dos Marqueses de Praia e Monforte - outside of Casa do Gadanha
Our senses were bombarded by most imaginative culinary creations.
Everything was fresh and light - a perfect meal for a hot summer afternoon in Alentejo.
Pure simple genius from a young chef who came out to thank every table at the end of the lunch service.
Sourdough with home-made spreads
Cabbage roll stuffed with roasted nuts on a bed of delicate ricotta cheese
Ceviche covered with lime-and-salt shaved iceAnd before you say - "ha! it must have cost an arm and a leg". Nothing of the sort. It was a regular-priced meal. So, if you are within a 500 km radius from this place - make a detour.
The wine that held its own next to these culinary masterpieces was Vicentino Pinot Noir White Wine 2021 from the Atlantic Coast.
Portugal's Costa Vicentina wines - Vicentino
May I present to you her royal highness - Vicentino Pinot Noir White 2021Our initial intention was to give our livers a break ahead of a winery visit that day.
But our honourable plan was thwarted when a server walked by carrying this wine bottle. My eyes were immediately drawn to the magic words on the label: naked, unfiltered, cool, coastal…
The server didn’t make it far - I tackled her by the bar.
This Vicentino is a blanc de noir - without bubbles but with decent lees ageing and a memory of tannins.
I like wines that have a hazy look - they have a silky texture on the palatePinot Noir grapes were gently pressed not to extract any colour. So instead of aromas - it’s an echo of a whisper of an aroma.
It tasted like the ocean breeze. Portugal’s Costa Vicentina in a bottle.
Fresh, salty, slightly frizzy and low in alcohol. My kind of wine. Especially on a hot dry Alentejo day.
Costa Vicentina in Portugal - cool and misty - just like unfiltered Vicentino winePinot Noir is not usually something you find in Southern Portugal. And for good reasons. The climate is too dry, too hot - unless you want to make a Pinot Noir jam.
But the Atlantic influence of Portugal's Costa Vicentina provides much needed coolness that slows down the ripening process and extends the growing season.
Here Pinot Noir grapes have a chance to develop properly - with delicate flavours and juicy acidity.
It wasn’t the most complex wine. But it was honest in its simplicity - and that’s all I ever ask for.
I saw Vicentino wines at a supermarket in Lagos a couple of days later - with a 10 euro price tag.
I only wish our local Ontario supermarkets had the same commitment to quality and price reasonability.
I agree!R. Vasco da Gama 4, 7100-106 Estremoz, Portugal
Herdade do Brejo Redondo, 7630-569, Portugal
