The region around Estremoz in Southern Portugal is known for its wines and marble.
In fact, there is so much marble that even the sidewalks of Estremoz are paved with a rare pink variety.
A pretty sight, but I wouldn’t want to walk these streets in the rain.
Not that the rain blesses this area often. Drought is a huge challenge in Alentejo. The Portuguese call Alentejo “the future desert’.
This is the land of muscular and powerful wines that send you into knock out (speaking from personal experience).
Most wineries in the area are larger producers. Not our thing.
But we chanced upon a small winery with a rare combination of heart, know-how and resolve.
After a fun visit to the Estremoz market and a mind-blowing meal at Casa do Gadanha - we thought we were done. Our senses were exhausted and nothing else could impress our weary hearts.
But Alentejo is a gift that keeps on giving…
A short 5-min drive brought us into a beautiful Serra d’Ossa valley - covered in vines, cork oaks and olive trees.
This is home to Herdade dos Outeiros Altos. A family-run winery that specialises in Talha wines made in traditional clay amphorae.
The property is gorgeous - authentically and lovingly restored by a sweet couple. Jorge and Fernanda started out here as young graduates from Douro - resolved to create something special.
This is also a family home - it feels cosy and warm.
Every nook and cranny is filled with love and dedication.
The wines are made in a very honest way:
Indigenous varieties, organic farming, field blending, wild yeast fermentation, no filtration - nothing to hide behind!
Just fermented grape juice - aged in old oak barrels or clay amphorae called Talha.
The family took a long time to search out old traditional Talha clay vessels to use for their production. The art of making these is all but lost. It took numerous visits to old garages and cellars to seek out these relics.
The oldest Talha jar in their possession has a menacing date of birth - 1666. It looks like a witch’s cauldron too. Must have made some mean wine in the past.
The wines at Outeiros Altos are simply exquisite. Carefully crafted, almost chiselled.
None of that clumsy heaviness that is often present in mass-produced Alentejo wines.
We loved this red beauty - Outeiros Altos 2021. A field blend of 5 Portuguese varieties. Co-fermented and aged in used oak for 6 months. No sulphur added.
It travelled with us to Canada where I opened it on my birthday in December. A monster wine with explosion of flavours.
We had to chill it a little bit to tame the fire. A true Alentejo beauty!
Estremoz, Portugal