L’Étiquette Paris - come for wine, stay for some parisian humour
Just when you think you know Paris…
… you come across another gem that makes you realize this city is even more special than you could ever imagine.
L’Étiquette Paris on Île Saint-Louis is one of those places. It is a natural wine shop that is quite possibly a portal into a parallel universe.
L’Étiquette Paris - a quirky mix of natural wines, art and memorabiliaIt was a gorgeous Sunday at the end of November.
One of those rare days - when mother Nature gives you the last glimpses of the sun and the warmth before taking them away seemingly forever.
The entire population of Paris was out by the Seine - drinking up the sunshine and alcoholic products of mass consumption.
Paris and sunshine in November - a very rare sight indeedWe were there too - freshly arrived from the cold and wet Champagne. Walking along the river, doing the most annoying thing tourists can do - stopping unexpectedly to take photos.
Yes, yes, I am a tourist. Sue me for it.
We had our cousin from California with us (same one who stole toilet paper from a Champagne house).
It was her first time in Paris, so we said we would do the most touristy thing - cross Île Saint-Louis towards Notre-Dame.
Île Saint-Louis to the leftWe were carried across Pont Louis-Philippe by a herd of tourists. Suddenly my sister pulled at my sleeve and said “look - there is a natural wine bar.”
To which I said “Naaaah, can’t be.”
So easy to miss!No natural wine bar lives in this neighbourhood simply because no natural bar can afford rent here.
But there it was - l’Étiquette Paris. Proudly proclaiming that they provide tastings in English with a French accent.
The experience starts with the sign at the door. Enter if you dare.In we go and….
no word of a lie ….
It’s like you are in a different universe.
None of the snazzy pizzazz of the very chic and touristy Île Saint-Louis.
No tourists, aristos or bohos here.
All locals. Enjoying wine by the glass as they browse for a bottle for dinner. Regular wine-savvy Parisians in vintage coats, hats and worn-out sneakers.
Not your regular Île Saint-Louis crowd. Notice stuffed Yoda and real saucissons hanging from the ceiling. L'Étiquette is also a cave à manger - that explains sausages. Not sure about Yoda.The interior is eclectic and quirky. Wine bottles are intermingled with art, polaroids, stuffed toys and other random items that you normally don’t see at a wine shop.
It kinda feels like you are in somebody’s personal wine cellar. And you are.
The owner of l’Étiquette Paris is an incredible personality by the name of Hervé. Hervé is as irreverant as the French get!
And yet - so kind and compassionate.
As a Canadian, I get nothing but political correctness everywhere I go at home. Don’t get me wrong, it is a privilege to live in a place that strives to be respectful towards everyone.
But sometimes it is so refreshing to be present to (or to be a victim of) pure, unabridged and uncensored humour. Hervé is the master of that. Just go with it!
Sign written on a bag hanging off the ceiling - Wine is the best social lubricant!Hervé co-owns l’Étiquette with his wife who we didn’t get a chance to meet.
They are trailblazers of the natural wine movement in Paris. When they opened l’Étiquette wine shop 20 years ago, natural wine was a swear word.
All wines at l’Etiquette are natural and, from what I understood, all are “no sulfur added”. Hervé has a particular dislike for any kind of additives - especially sulphites.
We saw some old friends on the shelves. But the majority of the wines come from unknown little producers - a very exciting line-up.
Wine by the glass selection is short and to the point - written on a very stylish green wooden board.
We immediately ordered the two orange wines that were available.
Natural wine tasting menu at L’Étiquette - short and to the pointI had a beauty from Alsace.
Maceration 2022, Domaine Charles Frey - which was NOT the Alsace wine on the menu board.
But you can always trust Hervé to change things up. He’s good at reading people and their wine preferences.
Look how cool the label is.
A lovely couple - Maceration by Charles Frey in Alsace and Stella from Labastidum in South-West of France.Domaine Charles Frey - a family winery with a long history of wine making in Alsace. They are one of the pioneers of organic and biodynamic wine-making in Alsace.
It is a 90% Gewurztraminer and 10% Riesling, macerated for 15 days, aged for 8 months in foudres and bottled unfined, unfiltered and without sulfites added.
Dry to the bone and so aromatic - knocks your socks off. A very exotic baby.
Could easily spend an hour at l'Etiquette - drinking, browsing, living the life.It helped correct the bad taste left by a sweet Gewurztraminer that we had at a café shortly before.
Long story short - just because you are in Paris, doesn’t mean you will get good wine everywhere you go.
Hervé was horrified to hear that I let that thing past my lips. He almost threw me out of the shop.
Guilty, as charged. I’ll know better next time.
By the way, Hervé is looking to sell l’Étiquette Paris and move down south to spend more time in the vineyards. Interested?
Cute as a button, and apparently for sale.10 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris, France
