Chez Eugène - A Natural wine Café in paris
I am perfectly convinced that Paris’ most striking feature is not the Louvre, or the Eiffel Tower or any other monument appropriated from a long-lost culture.
It is the abundance of cafés.
Cafés all around la Place du Tertre in MontmartreThey are everywhere and they add a very distinct charm to the place.
A traditional Parisian café will make any ugly sidewalk look pretty and cozy.
A café is a great base for that most weird Parisian activity of all - unapologetic people watching.
Walking Paris streets is like doing the runway - there is always somebody watching you while sipping on a coffee.
It’s creepy and yet - quintessentially Parisian. So, you take it or leave it.
A café hidden in the courtyard of le MaraisCafés are not meant to be centres of culinary art or watering holes for natural wine lovers.
You get your standard meal, accompanied by a choice of house white or red wine. You get it fast, and that’s already a blessing by Parisian standards.
On our last trip to Paris we stopped by two cafés.
Take one - your average Parisian café experience
It was a typical café, with your standard fare. It will remain anonymous cause it really could have been any café you pass on Parisian streets.
We were hungry and needed food fast. The waiter worked at the speed of light, the kitchen probably at double that.
We had our meal within 10 minutes, accompanied by a glass of barely-palatable Gewurztraminer.
It hit the spot.
A typical vegan meal at a Parisian café
A typical carnivore meal at a Parisian caféTake 2: Chez Eugène natural wine café
This café deserves a much longer write-up. It was one of the best meals in Paris paired up with a smashing natural wine.
We were in Montmartre.
Pleasantly exhausted from our trip to the Marché aux Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen where we picked up a lovely vintage coat and a Nina Simone record.
Looking for food and natural wine, as usual.
Montmartre has always been one of my favourite spots in Paris. And funny enough, once you get past the Sacré Coeur, it is also one of the quietest and most serene neighbourhoods.
Two steps away from le Sacré Coeur - not a soul
Typical Montmartre architecture
Le Clos de Montmartre - a vineyard in the centre of Montmartre
The famous le Lapin Agile
The even more famous le Moulin de la GaletteWalking the streets of Montmartre is like food for soul. But we needed actual food.
Thank god for the Raisin app. If you are a natural wine lover and are still not on it, get your shit together.
When in Europe - Raisin should be your guiding star. Not affiliated with the app in any way - just a huge fan.
Raisin app pointed us towards Chez Eugène on Place du Tertre.
Place du Tertre is the artist hangoutChez Eugène - natural wine in the middle of Montmartre
As we looked across a lively Montmartre square lined on all four sides with cafés, filled with tourists to the brim, it was hard to believe that this could be a natural wine hang-out.
But there it was - right in front of us - with its traditional red awning and cute woven furniture.
Chez Eugène at le Place du Tertre
It was cold, so the little red blankets were a very desired touch.We picked a spot on the terrace and prepared ourselves for a truly Parisian experience. Except somebody insisted on playing la Vie en Rose on repeat.
The moment we said that we found the place on the raisin app, our server gave us a wink, a smile and turned the menu to the natural wine section.
She was very knowledgeable about the wines - definitely not your average café wine service.
All natural, babyThe selection of French natural wines at Chez Eugène is impressive indeed. We knew right away that this is no ordinary Parisian bistro.
In fact, while the tourists occupied the terrace and drank horrid mulled wine, inside - it was all locals with bottles of vins naturels.
My sister went for a glass of Beaujolais by the Beaujolais legend Xavier Bénier, since it was the Beaujolais nouveau season.
Beaujolais Nouveau 2023, Xavier Bénier
My sister's carnivore meal, which she absolutely loved - with a glass of Xavier Bénier BeaujolaisI chose a sumptuous Viognier by Simon Gastrein.
Simon Gastrein is the rising star of the Rhone wine region. Wines that he makes under his own name sell at around 40 euros a bottle.
He also started the Maison Troupeau label from grapes grown by his natural vine-growing friends. These wines are much more affordable - at 20 euros or less.
Orange 2022, Maison Troupeau by Simon GastreinThe grapes for the Troupeau line are grown free of any kind of “cides”. Simon vinifies Troupeau the same way he does his own baby grapes. Indigenous yeast, minimum intervention, without filtration or fining.
This one is a 100% Viognier. Oh how I love a Viognier, when it’s done right.
Viognier can be heaven on the nose and hell on the palate. Beautifully floral to smell and flat to taste. But this one is acidic enough to carry the powerful floral and fruity bouquet of orange blossoms and apricots.
5 days of skin contact gives this wine enough weight to match a heavier meal.
Whole-cluster fermentation in concrete tanks - which explains why this wine was ephemeral and delicate despite the weight.
It danced a beautiful tango with my meal of roasted vegetables in a vegan gravy sauce.
My perfect vegan meal of just veggies.
Vegan food porn close-upIn short, this one was a perfect fall wine paired with a perfect fall meal. And all vegan!
We ate, drank and people-watched, feeling like we are having a truly Parisian experience in the most touristic part of Paris.
Promenading in Montmartre - a perfect way of working out that sumptuous meal17 Pl. du Tertre, 75018 Paris, France
